Відео

Most bundled knives are less valuable since they usually include knives you do not use unless the other favorite one gets dull. They also like to include 1 paring making it seem like a good value. I advise you to find 1 main knife (getting the correct style that suits your or your family's cutting motion, like a Santoku, Gyuto, or Chef's knife) and a paring knife (great for on and off-the-cutting board usage). So a main knife on this QSP video would be either a Santoku, Gyuto, Kiritsuke, or Harpoon Chef's knife (one of these). And a cheap paring knife like a 3-inch Victorinox that costs like $4 ish dollar each of even cheaper if bundled. I have multiple of the Swiss Classic Paring knives from Victorinox but any cheap paring knife would do (great for peeling apple skin, peaches, etc everything you do without a cutting board and still suitable for small tasks on a cutting board).

Thank you for the nice comment. If you have any questions feel free to ask :)

Yeah, I understand the reselling part under its own brand. However, the pricing structure is usually the biggest question (which has much to do with the marketing plans, added import cost, and potential loss shipping, and how low they could get the bulk order down). $125 NZD should be the average price for the Gyuto (210mm), Santoku, Bunka, etc. regardless of the rebranding.

The Feng series is harder to recommend due to the handle. Comfort is more important than looks and steel. Finding the knife style (judging from the inch mentioned I think you are looking at the chef's knife) and the correct handle will help. PM8 is a save same as the Zhen series. - Go for comfort. I heard from others depending on the humidity of the country they live in, that the buffalo horn on the Zhen Series can shrink or expand causing it to crack. (The PM8 Series handles are a bit bigger, but you will get adjusted to it, which is only noticeable if you came from a Japanese-made octagonal knife). Hope that this helps

@@chefpanko Thank you so much for your help! It's my first "better" knife and didn't want to make a mistake :)

@@mateojurcic8491 Hope you like your new knife :), I have contacted Xinzuo about the buffalo handle they are planning to make adjustments to address the shrinkage problem. Since it is a natural product it won't 100% rule the problems out but they can minimize it by removing the metal divider. Since Buffalo horn, is one of the more requested materials from their clients (they are an OEM so they do make knives under various brands for their clients).

*Creating the Burr on the First Side:* Begin by sharpening one side of the blade until a burr forms on the opposite side. This indicates that you’ve sharpened to the edge of the blade. *Creating a Smaller Burr on the Second Side:* After forming the burr on the first side, flip the blade and sharpen the second side. The goal is to create a smaller burr on the first side (the side you sharpened first). Typically, this requires fewer passes since most material removal was done on the first side. For consistency and clarity, I suggest using the same number of passes on this side as on the first. This is why I do not recommend removing the burr before flipping the blade, as Horl suggests. Removing the burr first can make it harder to break off. Worksharp’s rolling sharpener explains this process correctly. *Burr Management and Refinement:* Avoid removing the burr before flipping the blade, as doing so can result in over-burring. This happens when you repeatedly push the same burr to one side, leading to excessive material removal and shortening the blade's lifespan and edge integrity. Instead, flipping the knife without trying to remove the burr first allows the burr to transfer to the second side, where it is naturally weakened and easier to break off in the refinement stage. This approach helps preserve the blade's lifespan and integrity. *Edge Refinement:* Once a burr has formed on the second side, flip the knife and refine the edge by alternating light strokes using the included honing side or abrasive until the burr is removed. The goal here is not to form a new burr but to refine and clean up the edge by removing burrs and inconsistencies. While rolling sharpeners maintain a fixed angle, using a different, finer abrasive or honing stone can be more effective for this refinement. *Gradual Reduction of Passes:* Reduce the number of passes on each side as you continue refining. If a slight burr remains, gradually decrease the number of passes until the edge is completely smooth. This controlled approach helps achieve a finer, balanced edge without removing too much material. *Check:* After refining, inspect the blade for smoothness and any remaining burrs. If the edge is even on both sides and smooth, the blade is ready for use. Extra refinement, such as stropping, can be done for further polishing but is not always necessary. Note: Removing the burr before flipping the knife can lead to over-burring, where you repeatedly push the burr to the same side, resulting in excessive material removal. This shortens the blade's lifespan and compromises its edge integrity. Flipping the knife without trying to remove the burr first allows the burr to naturally move to the other side, weakening it and making it easier to break off. I hope this clarifies my method and my disagreement with Horl's instructions. Worksharp has explained this process correctly with their rolling sharpening product.

@@chefpankoyour method is perfect. Being very fussy, I strop between each grade of stone too. That's just me.

I unfortunately can't comment on any other rolling sharpeners that I do not have in my possession. The other one I have tested and not mentioned in the video is from Worksharp, and they got it right too. However, I have heard that many OEMs in China are improving their designs. As explained in the video each one had some things that were not good ie; not a good magnet attachment, abrasives that roll with the rolling motion instead of standing in place so that the actual abrasive can do its work, etc. All of these are design flaws that should have been eliminated in the prototype versions. However, the price is another factor that will eventually force other rolling brands to lower the pricing when more competitors come into the rolling sharpener market.

Depends on the person that is using it. Need something sturdy use a softer steel, if you don't need something sturdy use a steel that holds its edge for longer. There is no ''best'' steel, as the best is different for each person and its use case scenario.

@@chefpanko ok thank you

There are a lot more rolling sharpeners out there so my experience is limited to those in this video. (And the Worksharp Rolling Sharpener wich is another one I can recommend a review of that one will follow shortly).

Thank you for the suggestion and offer, I have the caliper for it, the goal for the video was a first impression and not a full review. In the full review I will have it measured (they do have a spine taper since I have measured and tested them all for the full review).

hahaha, I will stick with kitchen knives for now. I tried doing the flicking motion but I need some more practice! It looks easier when you see the pocket knife reviewers do it 😅(it is getting better but not as smooth as they do it). David is indeed the person who contacted me first, with the request to review the kitchen knives (Glad I did, did not know what to expect from QSP as a brand especially a brand not known for kitchen knives yet. It was a pleasant surprise, very simple but effective design choices were made with all the things I looked for implemented, ie; comfort and functionality, finishing).

@@chefpanko keep practicing with the Penguin and you'll get there. Also check out Orion Knives Scorpio and Cetus. That's David's pocket knife company. Scorpio is my one of my favorites. Easy to deploy, fidgety, and a button lock. Enjoy. 💜👍

@@OreoDave haha I will keep playing with it! I had no idea David had it's own pocket knife company/brand. I will try to keep away from the pocket knives for now. Need to stay away from the other rabbit hole 🤣

haha :), It was not supposed to be uploaded today but on Friday.

There are still a lot of bad Chinese made knives (most resold as fake Japanese knives), but those that do shine is doing great and above my expectations. They are really starting to show what they can deliver if they focus on quality and care about branding! One thing to note is that the prices has gone up, compared to the golden nuggets you could find few years back. (but speaking to the co-founders directly and in person made me realize why they had to increase the prices once they have established the brand name as an OEM). As a consumer perspective it is unfortunate but as a brand perspective it is reasonable and understandable. Finding the golden nuggets will be harder compared to years back when I started the channel.

@@chefpanko Yes, sure. The Replica economy is the worst. I just remember when anything from China lost in comparison because of that. I'm just pleased with many of my recent buys of well made Original models from China, that in comparison, are better than others in the same price range.

Thank you for your comment, I will have to visit Vietnam in person to see what they all have to offer definitely on my bucket list of countries to visit! The bigger problem overall is getting a brand into the hands of reputable/well-known retailers, some are reluctant to list an unknown brand on their retail/online store. Hence I'm certain there will be a lot of great brands, but without them being offered to reputable retailers around the world it is hard to find them or to recommend (especially with limited sales options).

I can't really see a difference despite the naming of it on some retail website. Victorinox own website just list ''Classic'' or ''Modern''. Which both has a visible change.

Thank you for sharing your experience and thoughts :) It is definitely a premium product and well made. With the many imitations and alternatives I do see the gap being narrowed. The results are getting more similar, but the Horl Disks is still one of the best so far, you however do pay for it. And after asking those around me (non knife enthusiast) they all choose Horl due to the aesthetic alone. Despite some functions being approved on alternative rollers. Definitely a sharpening category to keep an eye on to see what kind of improvements they come up with in the future like a Horl ''3'' etc.

I'm not sure, If I have a new one, I will review a few new ones but I have to finish the video editing of the old ones first. They have been pushing so many new series that it is hard for me to keep up with them as I also have a back catalog of other brands to review.

Yeah, there is a lot of fraud, especially from unknown brands mostly ''dropshippers''. It is important to see which brand is actually building a good reputation. Seeing the knives being offered at reputable retailers (William Sonoma for example but they have a strict policy and often ask for exclusivity deals before they even list a certain brand) is one of the ways to establish a trustworthy brand.

lol

Glad you finally got one in your hands!!

it is supposed to be ''can't'', working on my English but I now use ''can not'' for better clarity. My bad sorry. I have included closed captions for all my videos.

@@chefpanko Ah okay, thank you for answering. Yes, the captions say "can't soak".

They have contacted me to review their Hone Rolling Sharpener but, once I replied they never replied back. I do have the Worksharp Rolling Sharpener a review will follow shortly for that one. (A Rolling sharpener I can also recommend). I unfortunately can't comment on products I have not tried or tested.

@@chefpanko I’m surprised they haven’t got back to you! They have replied to my emails within the same hour sent, maybe give it another try, if not answer then yeah idk lol

Yeah, the simplicity is what got me drawn the most. The other series are good too from Misono but on the pricier side especially the UX10 series.

That is indeed steep, they should normally go for around $230/250 with a sale going on. AliExpress algorithm is set on high discounts so resellers/brands on there often list the product higher (it is not what some want but they are encouraged to do so due to AliExpress algorithm and policy, most of them will eventually move away from that platform after establishing a brand name, unless they change things).

I did not try them, but after hearing from those who did, they told me they were happy with the performance/price point (Currently only heard from those that used the MX3 series from Mercer). As for me, I have no opinion on it since I have not tried any of the Mercer series.

Ya sure...and then throw it in the drawer right? Oh wait...

If you buy the:- Horl 2 pro Full range of stones..... it's more costly than a Tormek one. For "most" my needs I'd use the Tormek 1. I have both. Tormek handles the whole process faster easier. The standard base stone on the z Tormek achieves a blade sharp enough for most needs. I have the shortly 2 pro and all the stones and Tormek 1. My choice is the Tormek 1.... without a doubt. If I want to "play" I'll Play with Horl finer stones.... it I'm just playing. In my book, my mind, the Horl to base stone is simply not good enough, coarse enough, to recover a lost angle. Yes, sure you can do it, but very time consuming. In my mind, the coarse stone should be in the basic package. Essential I think.

@@TonysTravels2023 Since we've had the Tormek 1, even my wife enjoys sharpening her own knives. It used to be too much of a chore for her. I still have a few whetstones for some of my knives, but I use the Tormek most of the time. I tried the Horl (and some other guided sharpening systems, which where better than the Horl) and agree with your opinion. But to each their own, there are certainly many people who get on very well with the Horl and enjoy using it.

I have not tested a lot of natural stones, but natural stones are inconsistent compared to man-made ones. The best choice comes down to the person using it and finding a stone they like since they are not equal. Even the Arkansas in the video there are specific spots I prefer more. So it is not consistent for the entire surface but you will find a way to use certain areas in your favor.

@@chefpanko I bought kuromakus but my knife teacher recommended natural because of the slurry and lower need for water, so I'm going to find out if I made a mistake

@@morehn Kuromakus? From Shapton? they are good, there is no need for natural stones. man-made ones are more consistent, the Japanese-made ones are so far as I know better quality. But competition from others might have risen up. Those stones also can form a slurry. Sharpening is more about your individual knowledge and the application of that knowledge. You are basically never done learning by hand sharpening since you can improve your own skills and learn various techniques. Finding out your mistakes will be easy you learn from mistakes and add more knowledge in your journey.

@@chefpanko in terms of the sharpening material, my main goal is to have the smoothest edge on a microscopic level. I was wondering if ceramic or natural would do a better job at that.

@@morehn ceramic since natural is as the name says natural it is what nature provides ie; can't be entirely consistent.

Mind sharing the maker?